Medellín

The reason I never took my flight on the 23rd May from Buenos Aires was because I wanted to go to Colombia. It was a place so many travelers had recommended, yet one very few sites or guides when I was researching for the trip and advised going to. I had wanted to spend about 2 weeks there, travelling up from Cali to Cartagena with a friend from the volunteering in Cusco, yet when my passport was stolen, I missed the Cali flight, and found I would have to spend some time sorting out a Visa for the United States. When I researched this, I found that to get finger and eye scans, I would have to be in Medellin, and to have the actual (3 minute) ‘interview’ I would have to be in Bogota. I could have done the whole process in Lima, and at points when travelling between Medellin and Bogota and back again I wondered why I hadn’t done this, but I was so desperate to leave Peru and get to Colombia that I thought it would be worth it. I therefore booked a flight to Medellin, said my goodbyes to my friends in Lima, and headed for the most dangerous city in the world (circa 1990s).

I won’t go into the details of getting my visa, but it was a hassle to say the least, costing money in flights, fees and hostels. By the time I finished it all up in Bogota I was pretty mentally exhausted, so felt I needed a break back in Medellin. Bogota is a great city, and is really interesting (I recommend the bike tour), but was endlessly grey and cloudy when I was there, so I thought I would head to the warmth and sun of Medellin.

Murals in Bogota. I like to think it represents the ways you can confront dark times. Either you can wallow in the misery, or accept and embrace it for what it is.

Mural for Jaime Garzón, comedian, satirist, lawyer and peace activist murdered by paramilitaries in 1999. It shocked the country.

Medellin used to be known to the outside world as the stronghold of the infamous druglord Pablo Escobar, where murders would happen daily, and corruption was rife. Today however, modern, vibrant, youthful and most importantly safe.

It is also known as the city of the eternal spring, due its endless pleasant warm weather, hot but not humid. It is one of two places in South America I could consider living in (Buenos Aires being the second). The first hostel I stayed in was actually a meditation hostel (Hostel Secret Buddha- 100% on Tripadvisor for a reason) high in the hills above the city, something I didn’t realize when I booked it. It turned out this was exactly what I needed, as it got my head right after all the previous stress and anguish, and the previous months of travelling, and got me ready for my final week.

After this I went down to a bit more of a party hostel in the El Poblado district of the city, effectively where around 10 hostels are situated, full of gringos, as well as some fancy restaurants, bars and clubs. I’d really recommend staying here. I went to Happy Buddha hostel, but there’s also a place called Casa Kiwi, and I’m sure many others. I had a great dorm in this hostel, with people I really hit it off with who had arrived at the same time as me, and so my positive experience at the hostel was probably due to this. Indeed that night, when we were messing about with other people in the common area, one girl asked me and the German guy from my room how many months we’d been travelling together. Sometimes you just completely click with another person to the extent you could have known them for 20 years and wouldn’t get on better.

But yeah, back to Medellin. The first day I was at this hostel, I went paragliding, which was a really awesome flight over some of the city from a one of the mountains that overlooks it (ask in your hostel. It cost about 35 pounds), and a lot more fun than the one in Lima. Before my afternoon activities, I managed to fit in a professional salsa lesson at Santo Baile Poblado, an excellent school that did an hour lesson for about $30. I did some basic steps and hip movements with a gorgeous Colombian woman, although I couldn’t look up as I was continually having to check my feet to keep time. So yeah, I did Colombia style salsa in Colombia! In the afternoon I took the city free walking tour, which was phenomenal. If there is one thing, just one, that you do in Medellin, do this. Pablo, the guy who takes each one (they’re about 4 hours, and there’s 2 a day) every day, is so passionate and knowledgeable about his city’s riveting and turmoil filled past that it’s impossible not to leave without the same passion for the city and it’s people. You see it with completely new eyes, and get an understanding about what its residents have been through over the past 20 years.

One of the best things about Medellin is its metro. Quite easily the best in South America (although doesn’t have much competition), it was built at the height of the violence in the city in 1995, and has therefore become a symbol of its past and future. Ultra modern, it rivals that of the best in the world, with both Spanish and English announcements, spacious carriages and regular service, and even little messages like ‘Smiling is good for the soul. We encourage you to smile. A smile is good for the metropolitan’, although that was a bit weird. It also never gets vandalized, because of its reverence among the paisas, or people of Medellin. You will never get mugged, will never see graffiti or broken windows, and won’t hear ‘youths’ playing loud music or shouting. There is a silent respect of the progress the city has taken since the metro was opened. It is almost like a reverse of the same symbolism as in the film Batman Begins, where the film starts with a young Bruce Wayne’s father explaining how the opening of the Gotham’s metro has made it a better place, and with his death, it, and the city, descend into darkness. A more recent addition to it are the cable cars, which run up the north of the city, and are treated the same by the residents. While we tourists all have our cameras out and are checking out the birds eye view you have over the people below, the paisas are listening to music, reading books or newspapers, and thinking about the day ahead.

The people of Medellin are known to be rather full of themselves, shall we say (there is a similar, if less incendiary, divide between Bogota and Medellin as Madrid to Barcelona). This sculpture shows the rise of the city’s wealth through gold mining.

A view over the city while paragliding

The Secret Buddha meditation hostel

Colombia is still mourning the death of Gabriel Garcia Marques, or ‘Gabo’, one of the great authors of the Spanish language.

Another thing Pablo explained to us on the Tour was why the paisas are so friendly to tourists. It is because they remember what the country was 10 years ago. How people used to live in fear, how 30 people used to die a day in Medellin, how there were 3 battling factions plus the drug trade all competing for power. Tourists aren’t merely gringos with cameras, they are symbols that things are starting to change, that the country is beginning to get back on its feet again after so much misery. That stamp on our passports is the most important one you can have, for Colombians, because it means you are contributing to this change, and are spreading the word that Colombia is safe to visit again. Pablo explained that if Colombians are happy, after all that, then we who haven’t had all this trauma can be too. It is so strange walking around Medellin, seeing laughing, happy people going about their day-to-day lives and knowing that many of these people have lost family and friends in the struggles over power and drugs, through bombs and bullets, and have seen their country and city at their lowest points.

This is why I am supporting the Colombian national team at the World Cup. The players in this team have never been to a World Cup before, and all of them grew up among the country’s dark times, but they play with such attacking verve, team spirit and passion that it’s hard not to get caught up in their optimism. They play with the same hope that their country is riding on at the moment, in the knowledge that while this is only the beginning, they’re in the right road to success.

The Colombian team do a traditional jig after star player James Rodriguez (centre) headed them into the lead against Ivory Coast. They won that match 2-1 in front of a stadium packed with Colombianos.

http://espn.go.com/video/clip?id=11108004 – US

http://www.bbc.com/sport/0/football/27930177 – UK

Colombia’s next match is June 24th against Japan. Now England have been knocked out, please give your support to them.

Food of Buenos Aires

Argentina is famous primarily for its steak, Italian food, and wine, and in Buenos Aires you can sample some of the best of each.

Eating

Steak

While its struggling economy means prices have risen in recent years, you can still get a world class steak for around $15 or less, and I had about 4 of these in my 3 weeks there, each at different restaurants across the city, each delicious.

While I’ve forgotten these places (I didn’t choose travel writing, it chose me), I do know of great one that friends sampled.

La Cabrera– Located in the heart of Palermo (José Antonio Cabrera 5099), this restaurant is often so popular there’ll be a queue outside, so it’s best to make a reservation beforehand. Because of it’s allure, they offer a deal where if you leave within an hour of arriving, 40% is knocked off your bill. This can mean saving quite a bit of money on a top class meal.

I recommend the Bife de Chorizo or Ojo de Bife.

Best steak I’ve ever had, hands down.

 

Choripan

Another traditional delicacy, choripan is basically just a chorizo sausage cut in half long-ways in between two slices of bread, with some chimichurri sauce on the side. It’s generally a lunchtime meal, eaten as street food or at football games, and is pretty cheap, around 10 pesos or $1 (approx).

Choripan in a restaurant outside of Boca Juniors’ stadium.

 

Bondiola

On recommendation from BA native Laura, I am adding this street food without having had any. photo 2

Here is a blog talking about it better than I can, but it’s first on my list of things to get when I return: http://pickupthefork.com/2013/08/13/buenos-aires-street-food-a-bizarre-bondiola-in-the-woods/

 

Italian Food

I have to confess, I’m not a connoisseur of Italian. I don’t know my gnocci from my felucca (I just made that word up), and although many of my Uni meals contained pasta, they were mish-mash of whatever sauce was on offer at Sainsbury’s and maybe some tuna for a bit of luxury (although I’m now going to call new creations felucca). The lasagna I had in Buenos Aires was sumptuous, creamy with just the right amount of crisp, and my favourite pizza at the place next door to my hostel (Estoril on Avenida de Mayo) wasn’t oversaturated in cheese, the way I like it. The place I frequented for easy and cheap meals was La Continental.

I’d also recommend the tuna tart, which had a pizza base but was filled with tuna (strange that).

Another Latin American favourite (although originally Italian) is ‘milanesa’, effectively a piece of breaded meat or chicken. On my first day in BA I made the mistake of ordering a plain milanesa, no sides or sauce. I didn’t do it again. Even in a sandwich or with plenty of sauce, I found it incredibly dry, although I suppose it’s relatively cheap (maybe $2) and a source of protein.

 

Desserts

While most sensible countries reserve sticky substances like caramel for rarities such as sticky toffee puddings and banoffee pies, Argentina includes it in pretty much everything. It, in this case, is dulce de leche. Effectively it’s caramel except they use milk instead of butter, so you can kid yourself and pretend it’s healthy. In one of my hostels (Estoril) we were given huge tubs of this for breakfast, and I certainly made the most of it, coating it in everything I ate.

Another delight I was served at breakfast at this hostel was the medialuna (half moon). These are small, heavily glazed croissants often served as part of deals with coffee at cafes, and are just as delicious as they sound.

Traditionally Argentina. Medialunas covered in dulce de leche.

Another dessert I sampled in BA was the rogel cake (pronounced ro-hel). This I had at a restaurant that is famous in the city for its quality in tortas (cakes), Como En Casa, in Palermo. It is effectively layers of wafers and dulce de leche with a cream topping. I am ashamed to say the piece I received (about $5) was too much for me, and I couldn’t finish it. When I want to beat myself up, I sometimes look at this photo wistfully and wonder why and how I couldn’t finish it. It´s on my bucket list to return to it.

(staged photo).

 

Drinking

Wine

I feel incredibly unqualified to talk about Argentine wine. Before I came out I knew nothing about it, and going back my knowledge will not have been added to, except that i now know Malbec is a good one. It’s a bit shameful but the only times I actually had wine were on the bus to and from Iguazú Falls, and at a tango show on my last night, where we were supplied with unlimited bottles for the duration, hence this red-cheeked photo of my mate Matt:

Doubtless these were two low quality Argentine wines, but I enjoyed them nonetheless.

Fernet

Another classic Argentine drink is fernet, a bitter spirit, often served after meals at posh dinners, with coffee, or in a mixer with coke at clubs. I recommend not taking it in a shot, unless you’re some kind of hipster bartender who over-describes things, like this guy off wikipedia: ”The easiest way to explain the taste is to imagine Jägermeister without the sugar. You shoot it, immediately getting a strong hit of mouthwash – drying the mouth out, stinging the tongue. Its kind of like getting hit in the nose. Your brain hurts, your eyes sting and water, you cough a bit. Then, as soon as it begins a warm wave of relief washes over and you are left baptized in Italian herbals and golf ball eyed awake”.

That was actually an quite entertaining read.

Anyway, fernet and coke is a worse mixer than than rum and coke, or vodka and coke, so I don’t think it’s going to take off elsewhere.

 

Next post will be on nightlife, or museums, or whatever I want it to be on, because this is my blog alright?